More places to stay, and perhaps live…
As we all are becoming armchair tourists again, several friends asked for an expansion of our recent Top 5 Places to Stay in Italy. Here we go, building it out to a top ten list, plus one more as a bonus.
6. Castello di Proceno, Proceno (On the border of Tuscany and Lazio)
When we first found the town of Proceno on the map, we wondered if it would really be worthy of a stop. The town was on our pilgrimage route, but the rationale for visiting it escaped me. What would we do there? When we called about parking it was all a bit confusing. However, upon arrival at our apartments in the small castle, we were charmed. The decor, the views, the warmth and history of the place left us spellbound. The proprietress offered a tour of the grounds before dinner. It was a joy to be shown the home, gardens and castle of this Contessa. At 85 years old, she climbed the eight flights of stairs and ladders to the top of the castle tower like a goat, as we were left huffing and puffing. She also shared amazing stories about prosperity, covering topics from the world class collection of Etruscan antiquities to the difficult days during WWII. Her father dealt with every occupying force as she was a little girl. One story was about the Nazi officer who serenaded the town using her piano, the one in her living room. There were more stories of occupiers, from Italians to the Americans. At night on the poolside terrace, we immediately recognized our waitress. It was none other than the Contessa. The food was rich, delicious, and abundant. Even more impressive was the bill. She split the checks for our group of 14 people accurately! When the time came to leave Proceno for our next stop, I had fallen in love with the place. The local bar opened for coffee at 6:00 a.m., a miracle. I was ready to buy a home there and maybe live there someday.
7. Agriturismo La Selvella, Radicofani (Southern Tuscany)
Traveling all the way to Italy to stay on a farm? Memories of Lucile Ball stomping grapes come immediately to mind. Rest assured that there will be no work involved at this modern Italian farm-stay, and the farm will be a small artisan family affair. As an alternative to hotel chains dotting major highways, Italy has encouraged families in rural areas to offer accommodations in traditional buildings with all of the modern conveniences. Farm-to-table food takes on new meaning when you are staying on the farm. Fresh. We arrived at this agriturismo, or farm-stay as we would say in English, on a hot September day after hours of hiking in the sun. We had made that cardinal sin of Italian travel; we missed lunch. Hungry and tired, we asked the proprietor for a snack. Within 20 minutes the table was set with antipasti and drinks for an army. You might wonder about the flavors of such a hasty snack. Let’s put it this way, she provided a flight of six specialty herbed salts that paired with specific appetizers. The tomatoes were picked while we were at the table. Given that level of attention for an ad hoc snack, you can try to imagine dinner.
8. Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni Apartments, Bellagio on Lake Como (North of Milan)
Yes, this is one of the most famous hotels in Italy, with an amazing location, including gardens on the shores of Lake Como that live up to the hype. If you would like to enjoy five-star amenities without the five star prices, check out the onsite residences called L’Ulivo. These apartments offer the best of both worlds, solid accommodations at great prices, with access to a jewel of the lake.
9. Cortona Resort & Spa, Cortona (Southeast Tuscany)
Who goes to Italy for a spa? Not us, but we became converts after staying at the Cortona Resort & Spa. Just down the hill from the town of Cortona, made famous by Frances Mayes in her book Under the Tuscan Sun, the resort is a retreat for the soul. While most of our group took advantage of massages, and other beauty treatments, Itook advantage of the wine cellar as my spa therapy. The onsite food and wine is amazing, as is the service. We went so far as to invite our waiter, Christian, to join us for Christmas in the US. Yes, the service was that hospitable and good–and we have a new friend in Italy. Also, the grounds afford the right ambiance for soul search. In the center of the main courtyard is an old, very old tree, hanging on to life by a thread, and unlike any other we have seen in Italy. It turns out to be an AMERICAN redwood. How? Legend has it that long, long ago after an Italian monk visited America, he returned to Italy with the walking stick he had used in California. The seed for this mysterious tree made the journey to Tuscany lodged in a crack at the base of the walking stick. Contemplate that over a few glasses of Tuscan wine!
10. Casa Azzurra, Positano (Amalfi Coast)
A local chef came to our rental villa to collaborate on the menu. He offered to take us to the market the next morning, where he would buy only the freshest ingredients. Watching him bring our dinner to life, in our own Positano kitchen was like being on the set of a Food Network show. Enjoying the fresh seafood, prepared with herbs from “our” garden, was savory and superb. The view of the Mediterranean Sea from our terrace was on par or better than anywhere we have visited on the Amalfi coast. As a place to stay, we look forward to returning to this house. The floor plan is a bit quirky, but the location makes the place. Just 80 steps down from the road provides proximity to restaurants. Down a mere 150 steps from the villa, and that is nothing by Positano standards, brings one to the Fornillo beach (via a private gate). The main beach is only a ten minute walk, but oh so far from the noise and hustle of the main beach.
BONUS: Lago Maggiore.. VRBO
Toscanini Apartment, Verbania (Lago Maggiore)
What we expected upon arrival and the reality were different, as this was a lesson in closely reading the descriptions on the internet. The cover photo of a pale yellow villa on the shores of Lago Maggiore was stunning. Entering the private gate, we were amazed at the size of the grounds: two acres! The old, shirtless gardener, with shoulders as broad as an ox, took us to meet the owners. He in his Speedo and she in her pool coverup, were quick to explain that we were staying in the annex, a different building. It turned out to be better, as the apartment had a connection to Toscanini. Embarrassingly, I didn’t even know who Toscanini was, but I quickly learned that he was one of the greatest Italian opera composers from the last century and had stayed in our little apartment, in the annex separate from the main villa. As time passed we learned much about the area and the 19th century gardens from our new friend, the gardener. A highlight of the trip was joining him for coffee in his closet-sized apartment. There are ample shops and restaurants within walking distance, and Stressa is a short drive.