When eaten in Italy, Gelato doesn’t have calories

Our top 5 places for gelato (gelaterie)

Just a bit softer than ice cream, and so much creamier… Is it the eggs in gelato?  Is it the natural flavoring?  Perhaps it is the dense texture of gelato that gives the rich, wonderful taste.  Whatever it is, it is delicious.  Oddly, I always lose weight on my gelato diet in Italy.  (Well, that might be due to the countless miles that we walk daily in Italy, but that is another story.)

There is much controversy about where to find the best gelato.  Many will claim that Giolitti is the best, while others swear their allegiance to Grom or Vivoli.  This brings to mind a Latin quote often uttered by Italians on these matters of taste, “De gustibus non est disputandum,” meaning something like matters of taste cannot be disputed.  That said, ignore the other opinions on this topic, as I will now share the truth, the best gelato in Italy.

1. Gelateria Buonocoure (Capri)  Living up to its name of “good heart” this gelateria and bakery is an island of serenity.  After a trip to the Blue Grotto (actually a swim, but let’s admit here that swimming the grotto is not safe nor permitted), Molly and I took a long gelato break here while the rest of the family went shopping.  With our cones in hand we strolled into Capri’s small piazza, la piazzetta, and contemplated the meaning of life under the well known clock tower.  As I look back I can’t help but wonder, “Did we go wrong by not also ordering the cannoli?”  It is made fresh in-house daily.
2. Gelateria di Castellina (Castellina in Chianti)  Want to feel like you earned your gelato?  We did when we took a gelato bike tour.  Feeling a bit less adventurous, you can drive there.  The owners are happy to show you how gelato is made, given that they make it right there for all to see.  Wonder if the strawberry flavor is real or artificial?  There will be no doubt after you watch the baskets of natural strawberries mixed into the raw gelato.  You might stumble across the name “Castellina” gelato in travels across Tuscany.  It is one and the same, as this family shop produces gelato sold in several nearby villages.
3. Gelateria Cremeria del Porto   (Fano) The owner of this place shared with me the secrets that make her artisanal gelato so much better than the typical commercial gelato sold in so many places.  Maybe the secrets are not so secret, quality ingredients in small batches, mixed by hand with love and attention.  As if the gelato was not enough, she helped us plan a future bike/barge trip from Mantua to Venice.  
4. Bar Natale, (Acquapendente)  Near the boarder of Lazio and Tuscany, just North of Lake Bolsena is this wonderful gelateria, offering much more than ice cream.  The homemade baked goods are overwhelming.  While pilgrims on the Via Francigena know this town and its treasures, most visitors to Italy miss this gem.  
5. Gelateria della Palma: (Rome) Located near the Pantheon, this is hands down the best gelato in Italy.  Don’t be put off by the expansive array of flavors (well over 100).  Be strong.  Order a large and try several.  The quality of the gelato is unsurpassed.  I am embarrassed to admit that I go there daily when in Rome.  Can you ever have too much artisan gelato?  If the variety and quality offered are not enough, Palma also has a bathroom.  In the center of the triangle formed by the Pantheon, the Trevi Fountain and the Piazza Narvona, you can find the best gelato in Italy and a bathroom.  This brings a tear to my eye.

More than the gelato… the place, the people and the moment make the experience.