Jackie O. in Positano: Before the Fame and Glamor of Instagram

“I first visited Positano in 1962, and of all the places I’ve been in the world, it is the most stunningly beautiful.” – Jackie Kennedy Onassis

Positano has long been a popular destination, but there’s a lesser-known side to this gem of the Amalfi coast that few visitors discover.

As Jackie Kennedy Onassis once said, “I first visited Positano in 1962, and of all the places I’ve been in the world, it is the most stunningly beautiful.” However, the Positano of her time was a much simpler place than the glamorous, Instagram-worthy town we know today.

If you’re willing to venture away from the town center, you can find the magic of the old Positano. The Amalfi coast is peppered with secluded beaches and hidden coves, inaccessible by car and challenging to reach on foot. The best option is by boat, although even that comes with its challenges. Many of the day-charter boats can’t navigate the shallow waters of certain coves, so a small Zodiac is often needed to get ashore.

One hidden gem between Amalfi and Positano is the charming waterfront restaurant, La Tonnarello.

I hesitate to call it a restaurant, as the experience is much more than just a meal. The food is as fresh from the sea as you’ll ever find, and the tables are set on a patio with a breathtaking view of the sea. If you prefer, they’ll even set a table for you right on the beach.

But La Tonnarello is more than just a restaurant. It’s a gateway to the simpler, more authentic Positano that Jackie O. fell in love with. In 1962, she stayed in a nearby villa, far from the pomp and glamour that people associate with her. This quiet cove was known for the tuna nets that were made and repaired by local artisans. Time stops in this little oasis on the sea shore, far from the traffic and crowds of Amalfi and Positano.

During my first visit to La Tonnarello, I was struck by the authenticity of the experience. Mid-meal, a small fishing boat pulled up just 30 feet from our table. We couldn’t resist inspecting the catch, and were amazed to see Italian eels – a delicacy dating back to Nero and ancient Rome. The fisherman set the eels free and took the crabs up to the kitchen. The crab legs on beds of ice at my hometown grocery store had a much longer journey from the sea to the plate than the ones at La Tonnarello.

If you’re short on time for a lunch stop, give La Tonnarello a call and ask for Augusto. He can help you arrange a shuttle to the restaurant, or you can grab a bus and hike down from the main road. Whether you’re seeking tranquility, history, fresh seafood, or stunning views, La Tonnarello is a must-visit spot for any traveler to the Amalfi coast.

Buon appetito!